A version of this piece originally appeared in German in the Slow Food Magazin 04-2017.
When you drive across the Hunsrück hills from the south towards Traben-Trarbach, the steep slopes of the Mosel river cannot be seen for a long time. Open fields gently roll on your left and right. But then, the road descends into forest. High tree trunks rise on both sides of the road; it is dark and slightly clammy. The GPS says 4km to go when the trees suddenly thin out and the road swings into a sun-filled curve. The first vines are combed up the steep slopes. Nestled among them, a small white sign with a green snail. This is the “Trarbacher Hühnerberg”, a natural amphitheater that, on its slate-covered slopes, catches precious sunshine and shapes it into grapes for deliciously complex wines. 19 years ago, this south-facing steep vineyard was a Sleeping Beauty that the Weingut Müllen, with the support of the Slow Food Germany vineyard patrons, raised from its slumber. Continue reading